Helping To Build An Ethical And Sustainable Future- Industry Guest Lecture From Hamza Cherif D’ouezzan, CEO Of Anou

Image Credit(s): Numedia Tabudrart (via the Anou), Unknown

Thumbnail Design: Bethany Hutchison

As I begin to consider my future career plans, I believe that reflecting upon the environment and my personal ethics is incredibly important. By reflecting on these topics, I as an individual can gauge a deeper understanding on the issues which matter to me the most and how I can cater my ethics to future careers. For example, I am incredibly passionate about the climate crisis and fair payment for garment workers ensuring that neither the planet nor its inhabitants are exploited. Therefore, it would be incredibly contradictory and disparaging If I were to start working for a mass market/ discounted brand such as Shein or Primark.

Much like myself Norwich University of the Arts recent guest lecturer Hamza Cherif D’ouezzan shares the same values. Despite joining the first business school in Morocco D’ouezzan felt as if a typical 9-5 was not for him however he was unsure on how make his social policies and creative endeavours fit in an ever changing and competitive landscape. From here D’ouezzan created a blog in order to take the first steps towards speaking to changemakers and swiftly decided to take his practice international by starting a leadership apprenticeship in the USA and completing a diploma in France during 2017.

Whilst intern-shipping in France D’ouezzan felt that the fashion world was incredibly superficial however, the internship gave him the opportunity to converse and connect with people of colour and the global South and ask them about their experiences of immigration. This aligned with D’ouezzan’s personal ethics and allowed him to redefine the outdated systems which come with immigration. D’ouezzan’s last internship was at Nestle as a graphic designer which allowed him to change the mould and started to begin ‘building a new world and not sustaining the old world’.

In 2016 (after leaving Nestle) D’ouezzan started to become aware of social injustice and the climate crisis which is when he decided to join the Anou as a director of operations. The Anou is an artisan marketplace which allows individuals to shop directly from a Moroccan artisan. The Anou provides these artisans with simple technology allowing these individuals to photograph their work, price it and place it on the website. All of the profits from the Anou go directly back to artisans (80%) and older, management, artisans (20%) which essentially helps to eradicate the tyrant middleman who, in the vast majority of cases, exploits their workers and pockets all of the profit.

Image Credit: Numedia Tabudrart (via The Anou)

D’ouezzan highlighted the shocking reality that when one is looking to purchase a Moroccan rug they will most likely be redirected to products from sites such as Etsy which will feature a plethora of (false) sustainable catchphrases. In addition to this, most of the time profits of Moroccan rugs from sites such Etsy go directly to the middleman leaving artisans with a merger 4% of total profits. Artisans who, in the majority of cases, are making less than $1 an hour and are marginalised, indigenous women who have not been properly educated. In addition, the source of materials for these products are also not authentic with 80% of materials making Moroccan rugs being sourced from New Zealand (which uses toxic chemicals) whilst Moroccan wool is constantly being discarded.   

A conversation with Rachida - An Anou Artisan  

Rachida is one of the local artisans working for the Anou. She began her journey as a weaver in a local market where she worked alongside her family. However, like so many artisans, she was subjected to exploitation. Rachida heard about the Anou in 2012 and started to sell her creations via them which allowed her to become educated and skilled in matters such as product pricing and photography. In addition, by working alongside the Anou Rachida has a newfound value for her product and craft and is continuing to learn new skills such as language and design (D'ouezzan, 2024).

Rachida (photographed) and one of her handmade rugs. Image Credit: Cooperative Tizi Nougdal (via The Anou)

Implementing the ethics of the Anou into my career post-graduation

So, In order to conclude this blog post, what can I take away from D’ouezzan’s journey and implement into my own work and career? Firstly, I think it’s important to build brand/ agency awareness in order to ensure that I am working for companies who truly value all of their staff regardless of career hierarchy. In order to ensure this, I must continue to research brands, agencies and publications which inspire me. This is something which I am already currently doing for my Ba1b Fashion Publication project and in which I have found publications (such as gal-dem) who do truly care about highlighting the voices and creativity of those usually silenced. In addition, It is also incredibly important that, regardless of the sector, I am working for brands which acquire their supplies in an ethical and sustainable manner. Sustainability is a large driving force of the BA1b unit and I hope that through this I can educate myself further on sustainable practices so I can enter the field post-graduation as a more environmentally conscious and educated individual. Finally, D’ouezzan’s lecture has highlighted the importance of supporting individuals directly from the source. Therefore, as I go into industry, I hope to work with individuals who create products in limited quantities or who run on a ‘made to order basis’ instead of working for brands who detect fast fashion trends and quickly replicate others designs with poor materials in order to create a quick profit.  

Overall, D’ouezzan’s lecture was incredibly insightful and inspiring. It has truly opened my eyes to the seedier side of the fashion industry and the paths and actions which I can take in future endeavours in order to ensure that I am not actively contributing to bad practices within the industry.  

Bibliography

D'ouezzan, H (2024) The Anou [Lecture to BA Fashion Communication and Promotion, Fashion Business and Marketing Year 1,2,3] BA1b Industry Awareness. Norwich University of The Arts. Unknown